Toxic Braids: Hidden Cancer And Fertility Risks In Nigeria’s $429m Synthetic Hair Market
BY GLORY UGOBA
Nnena Igwe never thought her favorite synthetic braids could pose a health risk — until she developed persistent headaches that wouldn’t go away. What began as a fashion choice soon became a health concern that sent her searching for answers.
Today, health experts are warning that the chemicals used in synthetic hair attachments — a staple of Nigeria’s booming beauty industry — may be silently harming millions of women.
From Lagos to Kano, the market for artificial braids and weaves is worth an estimated $429 million, yet many consumers remain unaware of the toxic compounds lurking in their favorite brands.
What’s Really Inside Synthetic Hair?
Most synthetic extensions are made from plastic fibers such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or acrylic, which release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) — harmful gases that can irritate the skin, eyes, and respiratory system.
When exposed to heat during styling — such as hot water sealing or blow-drying — these chemicals can be released into the air and absorbed through the scalp.
“Long-term exposure to VOCs and other additives in synthetic hair can disrupt hormones, increase cancer risks, and even affect fertility,” said Dr. Aisha Ibrahim, a toxicologist at the University of Lagos Teaching Hospital (LUTH). “The scalp is one of the most absorbent parts of the body, so what touches it matters.”
Stylists Speak Out: ‘Most Clients Don’t Know’
At Queen’s Touch Salon in Surulere, Lagos, hair stylist Chioma Nwokolo admits that awareness among her clients is very low.
“Most women just pick the color and texture they like,” she said. “They don’t ask about the materials or the smell. Sometimes, when we dip the synthetic hair in hot water, it releases a strong chemical odor — that’s the toxin you’re inhaling.”
Chioma said she has started advising clients to use human hair or plant-based fiber extensions instead, even though they cost more. “It’s about health now, not just beauty,” she added.
Consumer Voices: Switching for Health
For Nnena Igwe, the headaches and scalp irritation became unbearable. “After I stopped using synthetic braids and switched to human hair, the headaches disappeared,” she told NewsCrackersNG.
She now warns friends to check product labels and buy from trusted brands. “I didn’t know something that made me feel beautiful could make me sick,” she said.
NAFDAC’s Response and New Regulations
The National Agency for Food and Drug Administration and Control (NAFDAC) says it is stepping up efforts to regulate imported hair products.
In a recent statement, NAFDAC Director-General, Prof. Mojisola Adeyeye, said the agency had begun random testing of synthetic hair imports to detect harmful substances.
“We are expanding our post-market surveillance to include cosmetic and hair products,” she said. “Consumers must be protected from products that can cause cancer or reproductive harm.”
NAFDAC has also urged local distributors to register their products and comply with new labeling standards.
Meanwhile, lawmakers are reportedly considering a Health Products Regulation Bill that could tighten controls on synthetic fibers and beauty imports across Nigeria.
Experts Call for Awareness Campaigns
Public health advocates are calling for more education campaigns targeting both salon owners and consumers.
“Nigeria’s beauty industry is thriving, but regulation and awareness are still catching up,” said Nnimmo Bassey, an environmental activist. “We need clear labeling and better consumer protection.”
Experts recommend simple precautions such as airing out synthetic hair before use, reducing heat exposure, and choosing non-toxic alternatives when possible.
A Growing Health Concern
Despite the risks, synthetic braids remain a favorite among Nigerian women for their affordability, style, and variety. But as awareness spreads, more people are beginning to rethink what goes on their heads.
“Beauty should never come at the cost of health,” Chioma Nwokolo said. “Now that we know better, we must do better.”
